West of Ammarnäs (from obj.utsida.se)
In his brilliant book Fishing
in Utopia: Sweden and the Future that Disappeared, Andrew Brown writes:
“......where the mountains rise out of the forests towards Ammarnäs”. It must be one of the few
references in an English book to the village of Ammarnäs in Swedish Lapland. I lived there for several weeks in the
summer of 1975 and it was one of those places to which I felt I must return. Fortunately, I did the following year.
They were working trips, as I had been invited to join a
group of Biologists from the University of Lund in an investigation of rivers
draining from lakes, trying to find out why these habitats support huge
numbers of insect larvae that capture tiny particles from the water flowing
over them. Those Biologists were wonderful people to work with and we enjoyed spirited
conversations, and spirits, but also worked hard on the field work. They
were good times, but that wasn’t the pull of Lapland for me. It was the sense
that one could find areas that very few people had visited and no-one could
dispute that the region has great natural beauty. If you can fall in love
with a place, that’s what I did.
Bordering Ammarnäs
to the east is the Vindel River, un-regulated along its length, and with some
dramatic cascades. It was to the Vindel River that I returned in the late 1990s
to work with Björn Malmqvist,
one of my friends from the Lund group of fifteen years earlier, who was now at
the University of Umeå. We were
still both interested in insect larvae and travelled much of the length of the
Vindel on occasions, although our main interest was in the lower reaches and in
cascades and in runs between the regions of white water. So many of the
locations for our work were beautiful and I developed a special fondness
for one of the cascades – Renforsen.
Renforsen (from www8.tfe.umu.se)
When winter snow and ice melts in the mountains, Renforsen is a magnificent
sight and the river sometimes goes over its banks here – even carving a new
channel through the forest on one occasion. It is awe-inspiring and it’s
impossible not to be impressed. I found it another place to which I had to return and was fortunate that I did many times. I never tired of visiting Renforsen
and always looked forward to my first trip of the year with great enthusiasm.
After working on the river, Björn and I would buy a cup of coffee
in the cafe nearby, listen to the roar of the cascade and not say very much.
Very sadly, those times will never be repeated, as tragedy struck when Björn developed a brain tumour and died
two years ago. So now I have memories of a very special place and a very
special friend and colleague with whom I spent time there. I don’t believe in
souls but, if I had one, a part would contain the powerful and emotive effects
of Renforsen.
nice post
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