My childhood was spent believing that Roman Catholics had
strange practices and ceremonies that were not part of the right way of
worshipping God that we Baptists followed. 1 I broke away from all
formal religion as a teenager, but I retained a lack of understanding of the
need for highly decorated vestments, gilded surfaces, statues and pictures of
The Virgin Mary, Saints and Angels, and of incense. Clearly, all these are
important to Catholics, and have a special meaning for them, with the smoke from smouldering incense
representing the passage of prayers from Earth to Heaven, or as a symbol of spiritual
purification, with the three swings of the censer representing a blessing by The Father, The Son and The Holy Ghost. Of
course, the use of incense is not confined to Catholicism within Christianity,
and it is used widely in some Eastern religions, but it is this formal use of
incense that seems, to an outsider, to be such a feature of Catholic worship. Its
smell pervades churches and cathedrals after incense has been used in religious
ceremonies.
Cathedrals were often built on a very grand scale, as impressive structures to honour the magnificence of God. If they are
awe-inspiring now, just imagine how they must have appeared to people 600 to
1000 years ago, a time when many great cathedrals were built in Europe to
cement the power of Rome and to create the sense of wonder at the importance of
the Christian story. One Cathedral continues to hold
regular services that are so well-attended that queues form long before the
scheduled start and the Cathedral becomes packed, with all seats taken and
standing spaces, especially those in the transept and near the crossing,
especially sought after. This is the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela in
Galicia, Spain, and it is important as the site where relics of St James the
Apostle are kept. It is the finishing point of the Camino (The Way of St.
James), an ancient pilgrimage route with several starting points, 2 still
popular with both believers and non-believers. Is this why the Cathedral is
packed for some services? The answer to this question is partly yes, as the
pilgrimage brings so many visitors, but the real reason is that those crowding
the cathedral are doing so to see the use of a censer: Il Botafumeiro. It is
1.6 m in height and weighs about 100 kg when loaded with glowing coals, so it
is quite different to the average thurible.
In previous centuries, when the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela
was filled with pilgrims, it can be imagined that Il Botafumeiro had a
deodorising role, as well as that of the religious symbolism provided by the
smoke of the smouldering incense. Originally slung from beams, a mechanical
device was mounted high in the crossing during the Renaissance to allow the giant
censer to be swung through the transept. The current Il Botafumeiro dates from
the mid-nineteenth century and is tied to a rope and operated by a team of men
who pull their individual connecting ropes downwards in unison, starting, and
maintaining, the swing of the censer. We can see the splendour of the operation,
and its accompanying music, in a video clip taken at the time Pope Benedict
visited the Cathedral. His Holiness looks a little bemused by it all, while
Monsignor Guido Marini, the Papal Master of Ceremonies (standing on Pope
Benedict’s left), seems marginally more involved. I wonder what the Holy Father was thinking?
I have made two visits to Santiago de Compostela and, on
both occasions, saw Il Botafumeiro in action. On the first occasion, I didn’t
know quite what to expect, but found the spectacle to be high theatre and it is
this theatre that visitors come to witness. Certainly, I was very keen to
attend a second performance. Of course, it has its roots in religious practices,
and it must mean a great deal to the devout who attend the ceremony, but the
religious symbolism becomes lost in the scale of the entertainment, whatever
the protestations of the clergy. After all, Il Botafumeiro, like the Cathedral,
was designed to impress and I’m sure that the Baptist believers with whom I
grew up would be appalled by it all. Yet their plain chapels can be places of
high emotion during the theatre of their services of total immersion baptism,
or when evangelical fervour begins to take hold. They are all manifestations of
the role of religious ceremonies and perhaps these are as
important as beliefs to most who attend.
1 Wotton, Roger S. (2020) Walking with Gosse: Natural History, Creation and Religious Conflicts. e-book available from all good e-booksellers.
2 http://www.santiago-compostela.net/
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